This needle is one of the first objectives for a new climber to the area. They climb it to get used to the rock, snow, wind and weather in general.
According to snow/ice conditions and fitness, we propose two different routes to climb Aguja Guillaumet .
On the east face lays Couloir Amy, climbed for the first time by Bernard Amy and Pierre Vidalhet on February 26th 1968. They were part of a French team trying to climb the east pillar of Fitz Roy.
Total length of route 450 metres, 60º on snow/ice and 5.8
On the west face, the legendary Fonrouge-Comesaña is our proposal. The climb has very good rock and excellent views. After Couloir Amy, this route is the most repeated on the needle. Total length of route 600 metres, pitches from 5.4 to 5.9 and an amazing pitch of 5.10b. The last 4 pitches are shared with Amy Couloir route.
We meet our guide at 8:00 AM. We check gear, food and arrange last minute details. A transfer takes us to Rio Electrico Bridge where we start hiking. Two hours later we reach Piedra del Fraile camping. After a short stop we keep on going. 1000 metres of switch backing are waiting for us. After 3 hours we reach our bibi site known as Piedra Negra. We set up camp, cook some dinner and get ready for climbing.
Very early in the morning, may be at night, we wake up, have break fast and start our approach to base of the route. Depending which route we have chosen, our approach times are around 2 ½ to 4 hrs. Enjoy the climb and the panoramic views of the ice cap and other granite needles. We rap the same route. Come back to our bibi spot for a well-deserved dinner
Wake up when body says so. Take down camp and start our descent to Piedra del Fraile. After break, we keep going to Rio Electrico bridge, same way in, where a transfer to El Chaltén is going to be waiting for us. Barbecued Lamb is the Patagonian way to celebrate an ascent (there are veggie options as well).
Note: Approach and bivouac site are the same for both routes.
Difficulty and prerequisites
No alpine climbing experience is required. However, if you had some, especially in rock climbing, it helps a lot.
Guest should feel comfortable flat footing and front pointing on moderate angle ice up to 55 degrees with crampons
These are all physically demanding days and participants must be in good hiking shape.
Guests are required to carry a backpack with their personal gear (clothes, sleeping bag, pad, etc), group (tents, pot, stoves, etc) and food. About 20 to 25 kg, except summit day. Otherwise, personal porters could be arranged in advance.
The fame of the area regarding wind and fast changeable conditions are not a legend. Be ready to experience nature and all its beauties and power. We have one back up days and one rest day, which we use it flexibly to make best use of weather conditions.